My 18 year old son just returned from Poland this morning. His school, like many other Israeli high schools, arranges a tour of Jewish heritage and Holocaust sites for 11th and 12th graders. It is a very moving and enlightening experience for the kids. Most have no real idea what galut - exile - is, since they have lived in Israel for their entire lives. While they have studied the Holocaust in the classroom, it is hard to understand the dimensions of loss without seeing the camps. It is hard to appreciate the greatness of Eastern European Jewish civilization without visiting the shuls, cemeteries and remnants of that society.

For many students the trip hammers home what it means to be Jewish and why Israel is so important. I think that that's a shame - I think that Jewish identity should be based on Torah, on Jewish culture and history, on the Land of Israel - and not only on tragedy. I think Israel is pretty inspiring on its own. I'm not minimizing the importance of Holocaust studies - but it's only a part, not the whole.

I haven't had a chance to get much information, but I saw the itinerary - pretty full. The yehiva high school where he studies does a more intensive tour than most others. For the same money (a lot!) they see and do much more, sometimes driving through the night on a bus. They visited Warsaw, Cracow, Lodz, Sobibor, Birkenau, Maidanek, Aushwitz - and more. They visited ancient synagogues and the graves of Hasidic rabbis.

The trip wound up with prayers and a concluding ceremony at the Kotel. That's where I met the tired and emotionally drained boys. After prayers and something to eat (brought by us parents) they did a few readings, recited a chapter of psalms, thanked everyone, and sang "Ani Ma'amin" and "Hatikva".

One very moving and meaningful song that they sang over and over during their trip and at the Kotel was a rendition of "V'Hi She'omdah", from the Pesach Hagaddah:

"And it (the covenant) stood by our fathers and ourselves. Not only one stood against us to destroy us, but in every generation they stand against us to destroy us, but the Holy One Blessed be He saves us from their hands."

Here's the tune:

www.youtube.com/watch?v=C8h0yQZZyXk&feat...

These days are particularly poignant in Israel: Yom HaZikaron (Memorial day) and immediately following, Yom HaAtzma'ut (Independence day). The two seem inseparable - we can only appreciate and enjoy our independence if we understand what sacrifices were made, and continue to be made, in order for us to live here.

Yom HaZikaron is ushered in with a siren, and a minute of silence. We usually watch the opening ceremony at the  Western Wall on TV. It's always moving and has a distinctive national and religious aspect. In the morning (11:00) there is an additional siren. Cars stop, work comes to a standstill and people stand at attention. I work in a school on Mondays, so I joined the ceremony that they held there. Poems and psalms were read, a torch was lit and songs were sung. Having a son in the IDF, it was especially moving for me.... The best songs are on the radio on Yom HaZikaron - all the old sad ones about bravery, friendship and yearning for the ones who didn't return from battle.

Yom HaAtzmau't is a time to give thanks and celebrate. Our neighborhood has its own ceremony, starting with a short memorial service, a few words from the rabbi, a poem, flag formations, songs and some entertainment (this year a fellow who considers himself a stand-up comedian - I will not comment any further), a dance by the kindergarten kids - and torch lighting. This  is a tradition in the national ceremony on Mt. Herzl - a number of people are chosen who have made a special contribution to the nation. This year we marked 25 years to the founding of our community - and my wife was asked to light one of the torches (there were 7) because she was one of the initiators of our Mishloah Manot  project that raises tens of thousands of shekels for tzedakah every year. It's an honor ,and one well deserved. This year all old-timers were chosen  peolpe who live in the community since it was founded. Afterwards, special evening services, and a festive dinner with our neighbors and friends - we've joined them for the past 25 years and it's become a tradition.

During the day time there are a few notable traditions in Israel. One, for religious Zionists, is festive synagogue services, where Hallel is recited - like on other holidays. Another Israeli tradition is watching the annual Bible Quiz, where young people from all over the world compete against each other. This year, th PM's youngest son got 3rd place - his uncle (with whom I taught for a few years) prepared him for the contest. We watched the contest on TV - we rarely do anything else on Yom HaAtzma'ut morning. The other tradition is barbeques - this year we joined my married daughter and her inlaws. The whole country is filled with picnics and barbeques, and for some, that is the major observance of the day.

We've started a course on Jerusalem's history in the 20th century. It's  a series of walking tours every Wed. evening. The guide is brilliant and knows everything and then some. Last night we walked around San Simone (Katamon) where there were horrific battles in the War for Independence in 1948. Today the monastery is still there and one other building is still intact (it's a home for the retarded today) and the battle-site is a public park with grass, trees and paths, filled with children and others enjoying the greenery and open space. We heard stories of unbelievable courage and fortitude and a desperate battle that made sure that Jerusalem would become Israel's capital.

Lag B'omer has come and gone and I didn't have the chance to write much.

There are several main observances of lag B'Omer - the 33rd day of the counting of the Omer (barley offering in the Temple) between Pesach and Shavuot. These days are a period of semi-mourning for the 12000 pairs of students of Rabbi Akiva(2nd cent. CE) who died in this period. The talmud attributes this to a plague, a punishment for the lack of respect they showed each other despite their great Torah scholarship. Some historians connect this with the Bar Kochba revolt in 132 CE, a failed attempt to regain Jewish independence from the Romans. Some note the link between these events and the later suffering of Jews during the Crusades when whole communities were massacred (Speyer, Worms, Magenza and others) around the year 996 CE, in the months between Pesach and Shavuot. According to tradition, R. Akiva's students ceased dying on Lag B'Omer - or only died on 33 (Lag) days during the counting of the Omer. This is also the date of the death of Rabbi Shimon Bar Yohai, one of Rabbi Akiva's surviving students, seen as the main figure in the study of the secrets of the Torah, the Jewihs mystical traition. It is written in the Zohar that on the day of his death, Rabbi Shimon revealed secrets of the Torah and the world was filled with light.

Hundreds of thousands make a pilgrimage to Mount Meiron in the Galilee to his tomb. Bonfires are lit, children are given their first haircuts (called Hallakah - an Arabic word) and Hasidim dance all night to special Meiron melodies. I've never gone - it sounds overwhelming to me. Too many people in one place. I have gone to the grave of Shimon HaTzaddik in Jerusalem where a much smaller scale celebration takes place and it was special.

Kids collect wood starting on Purim (!) for their bonfires, and every vacant lot becomes a bonfire site. They don't do much besides roast potatoes and come home stinking from woodsmoke in the morning. My asthma tends to act up on Lag B'omer so I usually stay home with windows closed. I'm really not much fun on Lag B'Omer.

Next week is Yom Yerushalayim - the anniversary of Jerusalem's liberation and unification. We celebrate it with special festive services in shul. There is an all-night celebration that starts at the Merkaz HaRav yeshiva and concludes with prayers at dawn at the Kotel. I went one year - it was nice, and once was enough. There are processions with dancing with flags in the afternoon - maybe I'll go to see, if I can persuade my youngest (age 15) to come along.

One year I led a tour on the Temple Mount on Jerusalem day - but the last few years the police have closed the Mount to visitors (read: Jews) for fear of Arab violence. Naturally, the Mount is open to Arabs and Muslims.

We're in the middle of Hebrew Book Week - basically a week long book fair that takes place in every city in Israel. Publishers and distributors sell books at a discount and it's an opportunity to see everything displayed at once.

It's a very popular activity, and a large percentage of Israelis are dedicated readers. Book consumption (as well as publishing and authorship) is very high for such a small country.

I work in a public library and it's sometimes amazing to see what kind of people come and what books they read. We receive new books all the time and it's a thrill to see what is being written: fiction, history, Judaica - as well as all the translations that are available. Still, there are people who gravitate to Harlequin romances - translated into Hebrew.

Speaking of culture, I attended a concert last week - Yitzchak Perlman conducted. it was the culmination of an international music master program where 20 talented young musicians from all over the world joined 20 young Israeli musicians in Jerusalem for two weeks. My daughter, who majored in music in university, was working as a "fellow" - in essence, a counselor, logistics person and general organizer. She had the opportunity to sing in the choir (an important part of the program) as well as attend master classes given by Mr. P., who enjoyed the opportunity to speak in his native Hebrew. She also drove the participants around, including taking them to church - a new experience for her. She didn't attend the service, but she did research (on the web) where English services were held and dropped them off. They were very accommodating about making sure kosher food was available for her (the program was held mostly at the YMCA which is not kosher) and giving her off Shabbat and Shavuot, the first day of the program.

I'm not going to address the elephant in the middle of the room - the Gaza flotilla. I, and others, have written about it on the Middle East forum, and it wouldn't hurt to hear some more pro-Israel voices there. Because it's such a small country, things get closer to home than is comfortable. My nephew, a recently drafted soldier, was involved in unloading the ship - and he found more than "humanitarian" cargo there.